Commercial Refrigerator Maintenance Tips: How to Extend Its Lifespan (Without Losing Your Mind)

I’ll admit it, I used to treat my first commercial fridge like it was invincible. It was one of those massive, stainless steel beasts that hummed ominously in the corner of my friend’s food truck, and I figured, “Hey, it’s built for restaurants, right? It can handle anything.” Spoiler: It couldn’t. Three years in, the compressor gave out during a summer heatwave, and we lost $2,000 worth of inventory in a single, sweaty, panic-induced afternoon. That was the day I learned that commercial refrigerators aren’t just appliances, they’re the unsung heroes of food service, and they demand respect (and regular maintenance) if you want them to last.

Fast forward to now, and I’ve spent more hours than I’d like to admit knee-deep in service manuals, talking to repair techs, and, let’s be honest, googling things like “why does my fridge sound like a dying robot?” at 2 a.m. What I’ve realized is that most commercial fridge failures aren’t sudden; they’re slow, preventable declines caused by neglect, dirty coils, or ignoring that one weird noise that’s been happening for months. The good news? With a little know-how and consistency, you can double (or even triple) the lifespan of your unit, save thousands in repairs, and avoid the kind of meltdown that makes you question your life choices.

So, whether you’re running a food truck, a bustling restaurant kitchen, or a convenience store with a cooler full of drinks, this guide is for you. We’ll cover everything from daily habits that take 60 seconds to deep-cleaning rituals you should do quarterly, plus the red flags that mean you need to call a pro ASAP. And because I’ve been there, I’ll also share the mistakes I’ve made (so you don’t have to), the tools that are worth the investment, and how to talk to repair techs without sounding like a total newbie. Let’s dive in.

The Brutal Truth About Commercial Refrigerator Lifespans (And Why Yours Might Be Dying Early)

First, let’s talk numbers. A well-maintained commercial refrigerator should last 10 to 15 years. But here’s the kicker: most don’t. Industry data suggests the average lifespan is closer to 7 to 10 years, and in high-volume kitchens (looking at you, 24-hour diners and pizzerias), that number can drop to 5 years or less. Why? Because commercial fridges work harder than you think. They’re not like your home fridge, cycling on and off a few times a day. These things run almost continuously, fighting against heat from ovens, humidity from dishwashers, and the constant opening and closing of doors. Add in dust, grease, and the occasional spilled sauce, and you’ve got a recipe for early failure.

The biggest culprits shortening your fridge’s life?

• Dirty condenser coils: When coils are clogged with dust, the fridge has to work 20-30% harder to stay cold. That’s like running a marathon with a weighted vest, eventually, something’s gonna give.
• Faulty door seals: A tiny gap in the gasket can let out enough cold air to increase energy use by 15% and force the compressor to overwork.
• Ignored temperature fluctuations: If your fridge is consistently 5°F warmer than it should be, you’re not just risking food safety, you’re accelerating wear on the compressor.
• Overloading: Stuffing a fridge past capacity blocks airflow, creating hot spots that make the unit work inefficiently.
• Skipping professional servicing: Just like your car needs oil changes, your fridge needs annual check-ups to catch small issues before they become catastrophic.

Here’s the thing: Most of these problems are invisible until they’re not. You won’t see the compressor struggling until it burns out. You won’t notice the coils are dirty until the fridge stops cooling. And by then, you’re looking at a $1,500+ repair bill or a full replacement. So, how do you avoid this? By treating maintenance like preventative healthcare for your fridge. And no, it’s not as overwhelming as it sounds.

How Often Should You Really Be Maintaining Your Fridge?

I used to think “maintenance” meant wiping down the shelves once a month. Oh, how naive I was. The truth is, commercial fridge maintenance is a mix of daily, weekly, monthly, and annual tasks. Here’s the breakdown:

Frequency	Task	Why It Matters
Daily	Check temperature, wipe spills, ensure doors seal properly	Prevents food safety issues and reduces strain on the unit
Weekly	Clean interior, inspect door gaskets, remove dust from vents	Keeps airflow unobstructed and prevents mold/mildew
Monthly	Deep-clean coils, check drain pans, test thermostats	Improves efficiency and catches early signs of wear
Quarterly	Inspect fan motors, lubricate hinges, check refrigerant levels (if qualified)	Extends the life of moving parts and prevents leaks
Annually	Professional servicing (compressor check, refrigerant recharge, electrical inspection)	Catches hidden issues before they become expensive failures

Yes, it’s a lot. But here’s the secret: Most of these tasks take less than 10 minutes. The key is consistency. Miss a month of coil cleaning? No big deal. Miss a year? Now you’re playing Russian roulette with your fridge’s lifespan.

Daily Maintenance: The 5-Minute Habits That Save Thousands

Let’s start with the easy stuff, the daily checks that take almost no time but have a massive impact. I’ll be honest: I used to skip these. “I’ll do it tomorrow,” I’d say, as I walked past a puddle of mystery liquid at the bottom of the fridge. Tomorrow turned into next week, and next week turned into a service call. Don’t be like past me.

1. The Temperature Check (Non-Negotiable)

Every morning, before the rush, check the temperature. For most commercial fridges, the sweet spot is 35°F to 38°F. Freezers should be at 0°F or below. Why? Because:

• Food safety: The FDA’s “danger zone” is 40°F to 140°F. Above 40°F, bacteria grow exponentially.
• Energy efficiency: A fridge running at 40°F uses 10-15% more energy than one at 37°F.
• Compressor health: If the temp is consistently too high or too low, the compressor is working overtime, shortening its life.

Pro tip: Use a secondary thermometer. The built-in thermostat can be off by 5°F or more. I like the Thermoworks ChefAlarm-it’s $50 and has saved me from more than one “oops, the fridge was at 45°F all night” disaster.

2. The Door Seal Test (30-Second Lifesaver)

Door gaskets (those rubber seals around the edges) are the most underrated part of your fridge. A tiny tear or gap can:

• Let out cold air, forcing the compressor to run longer.
• Let in humid air, causing frost buildup and mold.
• Increase energy costs by up to 20%.

How to test it:

1. Close the door on a dollar bill (or a thin piece of paper).
2. Try to pull it out. If it slides out easily, the seal is weak.
3. Repeat around the entire door. If any spot fails, it’s time to clean or replace the gasket.

Cleaning tip: Mix warm water + baking soda, scrub the gasket with a soft brush, then wipe with vinegar to kill mold. If the gasket is cracked or brittle, replace it immediately. A new gasket costs $20-$50; a burnt-out compressor costs $800+.

3. The Spill Patrol (Preventing the “What’s That Smell?” Moment)

Spills happen. But when you ignore them, they:

• Turn into sticky, bacterial breeding grounds.
• Clog drain pans, leading to leaks and water damage.
• Attract pests (nothing says “health code violation” like ants in your fridge).

Keep a spray bottle of vinegar + water (1:1 ratio) and a microfiber cloth near the fridge. Wipe spills immediately. For tough stains, use baking soda paste (baking soda + water). Avoid harsh chemicals, they can degrade plastic shelves and leave residues that contaminate food.

4. The “Is the Fridge Level?” Check (Yes, This Matters)

If your fridge isn’t level, the doors won’t seal properly, and the compressor can vibrate excessively, leading to premature wear. Check the level monthly (or whenever you notice the doors swinging open on their own).

How to fix it:

1. Use a bubble level on top of the fridge.
2. Adjust the feet (most have screw-in leveling legs).
3. If the floor is uneven, use shims (thin wooden or plastic wedges).

5. The “Listen for Weird Noises” Habit

Your fridge should hum softly. If you hear:

• Clicking repeatedly: Could be a failing starter relay or dirty condenser coils.
• Buzzing loudly: Often a compressor issue or refrigerant leak.
• Rattling or vibrating: Loose parts, fan motor issues, or an unlevel fridge.
• Hissing: Could indicate a refrigerant leak (dangerous, call a pro ASAP).

If a noise is new or getting louder, don’t ignore it. Write it down, note when it happens (e.g., “only when the compressor kicks on”), and Google it or call a tech. Early intervention can mean the difference between a $100 fix and a $2,000 replacement.

Weekly Deep Clean: The Ritual That Keeps Your Fridge Running Like New

Once a week, set aside 20-30 minutes for a deeper clean. This isn’t just about hygiene, it’s about keeping the fridge’s mechanics in top shape. Here’s my step-by-step process:

1. Empty and Organize (The Marie Kondo Method for Fridges)

Take everything out. Yes, all of it. This is your chance to:

• Check expiration dates (toss anything questionable-when in doubt, throw it out).
• Wipe down shelves and drawers with hot, soapy water (avoid bleach, it can corrode metal).
• Reorganize for airflow: Don’t block vents! Leave 2-3 inches of space between items and the back wall.
• Rotate stock: First in, first out (FIFO). Put newer items in the back to avoid waste.

Pro tip: Use clear bins for small items (like sauces or garnishes). It keeps things organized and reduces door-open time (which saves energy).

2. Clean the Drain Pan and Drain Line

The drain pan (usually at the bottom back of the fridge) collects condensation. If it’s dirty or clogged:

• Water can back up into the fridge, causing leaks.
• Mold and bacteria can grow, leading to foul odors.
• The fridge may shut off unexpectedly if the drain line freezes.

How to clean it:

1. Unplug the fridge (safety first!).
2. Slide out the drain pan (it’s usually removable).
3. Wash with warm, soapy water and a brush.
4. Pour a vinegar + water mix down the drain line to clear clogs.
5. Check for cracks or warping-replace if damaged.

3. Vacuum the Front Grille and Vents

The front grille (where the condenser coils are usually located) must stay clear. Dust and debris here restrict airflow, making the fridge work harder. Use a soft-bristle brush attachment on your vacuum to gently clean the grille. Never use a sharp object-you could damage the coils.

4. Inspect the Fan and Motor

Most commercial fridges have two fans: one for the evaporator (inside) and one for the condenser (outside). If they’re not working:

• The fridge won’t cool evenly.
• Frost will build up excessively.
• The compressor will overheat.

How to check:

1. Listen for the fan running when the compressor is on.
2. If it’s silent, unplug the fridge and manually spin the fan blade. If it doesn’t spin freely, the motor may be failing.
3. Look for dust buildup-clean with a damp cloth (never soak the motor).

Monthly Maintenance: The Tasks That Feel Like Overkill (But Aren’t)

These are the tasks that separate the “my fridge lasts 5 years” crowd from the “my fridge is still running strong after 12” crowd. They take a little more effort, but they’re game-changers for longevity.

1. Deep-Cleaning the Condenser Coils (The #1 Thing You’re Probably Skipping)

Condenser coils are the heart of your fridge’s cooling system. When they’re dirty, the fridge loses 25-30% of its efficiency, and the compressor wears out faster. Here’s how to clean them properly:

What you’ll need:

• Vacuum with a brush attachment
• Coil cleaning brush (or a stiff-bristle paintbrush)
• Compressed air (optional, but helpful for tight spaces)
• Flashlight (to see what you’re doing)
• Screwdriver (if you need to remove a panel)

Step-by-step:

1. Unplug the fridge (seriously, don’t skip this).
2. Locate the coils: Usually at the back or bottom of the fridge. Some models have a removable panel-check your manual.
3. Vacuum loose dust with the brush attachment. Be gentle-don’t bend the coils!
4. Use the coil brush to scrub between the coils. This is where the real grime hides.
5. Blow out debris with compressed air (if available). Hold the can upright to avoid moisture spray.
6. Wipe down the area with a damp cloth to catch any remaining dust.
7. Reassemble and plug back in.

How often? Every 1-3 months, depending on your environment. If you’re in a dusty or greasy kitchen (like near a fryer), do it monthly.

Pro tip: If your coils are severely corroded (rusty or pitted), it’s time to call a pro. Corroded coils can’t be cleaned, they need to be replaced.

2. Testing the Thermostat and Calibrating if Needed

A faulty thermostat can cause temperature swings, frost buildup, and compressor strain. Here’s how to test it:

1. Place a secondary thermometer (like the Thermoworks one I mentioned earlier) inside the fridge.
2. Let it run for 24 hours and compare the reading to the built-in thermostat.
3. If there’s a discrepancy of 3°F or more, the thermostat may need calibration or replacement.

Some digital thermostats can be recalibrated-check your manual. If not, replacing a thermostat is a $50-$150 job (vs. $1,000+ for a new compressor).

3. Lubricating Hinges and Moving Parts

Squeaky hinges aren’t just annoying, they wear out faster and can misalign the door, breaking the seal. Use a food-safe lubricant (like Super Lube or CRC Food Grade Silicone) on:

• Door hinges
• Drawer slides
• Fan motors (if accessible)

Avoid WD-40-it’s not food-safe and can attract dust.

4. Checking the Door Hinges and Alignment

Over time, door hinges can loosen or bend, causing the door to sag. This:

• Prevents a tight seal.
• Puts stress on the gasket.
• Can damage the door if left unchecked.

How to fix it:

1. Tighten loose screws on the hinges.
2. If the door is misaligned, you may need to adjust the hinge pins (check your manual).
3. For severely bent hinges, replace them, they’re cheap ($20-$40) and easy to install.

Quarterly Tasks: The “I’ll Do It Later” Jobs That Actually Matter

These are the tasks that feel like “extra credit”, but they’re what separate a fridge that lasts 7 years from one that lasts 15. Set a calendar reminder-future you will be grateful.

1. Inspecting the Fan Motors

Fan motors wear out over time, especially in high-use kitchens. Signs of a failing motor:

• The fan runs loudly or vibrates excessively.
• The fridge isn’t cooling evenly (hot spots inside).
• The motor gets hot to the touch.

How to check:

1. Unplug the fridge.
2. Locate the evaporator fan (inside) and condenser fan (outside).
3. Spin the blades by hand, they should move smoothly. If they’re sticky or rough, the motor is failing.
4. Listen for grinding or squealing when the fridge is running.

Replacing a fan motor is a $100-$200 job (DIY-friendly if you’re comfortable with basic tools). Ignoring it can lead to compressor failure ($$$).

2. Checking Refrigerant Levels (When to Call a Pro)

Refrigerant is the lifeblood of your fridge’s cooling system. If levels are low:

• The fridge won’t cool properly.
• The compressor runs constantly, shortening its life.
• You may see frost buildup in weird places.

You cannot check refrigerant levels yourself-it requires specialized tools and certification (EPA 608 in the U.S.). But you can watch for signs of a leak:

• Hissing sounds near the coils.
• Oily residue on the refrigerant lines.
• The fridge stops cooling even though the compressor is running.

If you suspect a leak, call a pro immediately. Refrigerant leaks are dangerous (some older refrigerants are toxic) and illegal to vent into the atmosphere. A recharge typically costs $200-$500, but it’s cheaper than a new compressor.

3. Cleaning the Evaporator Coils (The Hidden Frost Factory)

While condenser coils are outside, evaporator coils are inside the fridge (usually behind a panel in the freezer section). When they get dirty or frosted over:

• The fridge loses cooling power.
• Frost blocks airflow, causing hot spots.
• The defrost cycle works harder, increasing energy use.

How to clean them:

1. Unplug the fridge and remove the evaporator cover (check your manual).
2. If there’s frost buildup, let it melt naturally (don’t chip at it, you could damage the coils!).
3. Use a soft brush to clean the coils.
4. Check the defrost drain-if it’s clogged, water will pool and freeze, causing more frost.

How often? Every 3-6 months, or if you notice excessive frost.

4. Testing the Defrost System

Most commercial fridges have an automatic defrost system (timer, heater, and thermostat). If it fails:

• Frost builds up uncontrollably.
• The fridge stops cooling because airflow is blocked.
• The compressor burns out from overwork.

How to test it:

1. Unplug the fridge and locate the defrost timer (usually near the thermostat).
2. Manually advance the timer to initiate a defrost cycle (consult your manual).
3. Listen for the heater clicking on and watch for frost melting.
4. If nothing happens, the timer, heater, or thermostat may be faulty.

Replacing a defrost timer is a $50-$100 DIY job. A faulty heater or thermostat may require a pro ($150-$300).

Annual Professional Servicing: The Investment That Pays for Itself

I get it-paying $200-$400 a year for a fridge tune-up feels like throwing money away. But here’s the math:

• A well-maintained fridge uses 10-20% less energy, saving $100-$300/year in electricity.
• Catching a small refrigerant leak early costs $200. Ignoring it until the compressor fails costs $1,500+.
• A fridge that lasts 15 years instead of 7 saves you $3,000-$5,000 in replacement costs.

What a pro service should include:

• Compressor inspection (listening for unusual noises, checking amperage draw).
• Refrigerant level check (and top-off if needed).
• Electrical component test (capacitors, relays, wiring).
• Coil and fan deep clean.
• Thermostat calibration.
• Door seal and hinge inspection.

How to find a good tech:

• Look for EPA 608 certification (required for refrigerant handling).
• Ask for references from local restaurants.
• Avoid “cheap” services-you get what you pay for. A $99 “tune-up” is probably just a coil cleaning.
• Get a written report of what was checked and any recommendations.

Red Flags: When to Call a Pro ASAP

Some issues are DIY-friendly. Others are ticking time bombs. Here’s when to pick up the phone:

1. The Fridge Isn’t Cooling (But the Compressor Is Running)

Possible causes:

• Refrigerant leak (hissing sound, oily residue).
• Faulty compressor (clicking on and off rapidly).
• Blocked airflow (dirty coils, frozen evaporator).
• Bad thermostat or sensor.

DIY first: Clean coils, check airflow, test thermostat with a secondary gauge. If that doesn’t fix it, call a pro.

2. The Compressor Is Clicking On and Off Rapidly

This is called “short cycling”, and it’s killing your compressor. Causes:

• Dirty condenser coils (easy fix, clean them!).
• Low refrigerant (needs a pro).
• Faulty start relay or capacitor ($50-$100 part, easy to replace).
• Overloaded fridge (reduce contents and improve airflow).

If cleaning the coils doesn’t help, don’t wait-this can burn out the compressor in weeks.

3. Excessive Frost Buildup (Beyond Normal)

A little frost is normal. Ice glaciers forming overnight are not. Causes:

• Faulty defrost system (timer, heater, or thermostat).
• Door not sealing (check gaskets).
• Clogged drain line (water can’t escape, so it freezes).

DIY first: Clean the drain line, check door seals, manually defrost. If it keeps happening, call a pro-the defrost system may need parts.

4. The Fridge Is Leaking Water

Possible causes:

• Clogged drain line (easy fix, clean it!).
• Cracked drain pan (replace it-$20-$40).
• Faulty water inlet valve (if your fridge has a water dispenser).
• Condensation from a dirty coil (clean the coils!).

If it’s not the drain line or pan, call a pro-it could be a refrigerant issue or compressor problem.

5. The Fridge Is Making a Loud, Unusual Noise

Fridges shouldn’t sound like:

• A jet engine (compressor strain).
• A screeching banshee (fan motor failure).
• A jackhammer (loose compressor mounts).
• A hissing snake (refrigerant leak-DANGER).

If the noise is new and not fixed by cleaning, call a tech. Ignoring strange noises is like ignoring engine knocking in your car-it doesn’t end well.

Extending Your Fridge’s Lifespan: The Big-Picture Strategies

Beyond the nitty-gritty maintenance, there are big-picture habits that can add years to your fridge’s life. These are the things I wish I’d known when I started:

1. Buy the Right Fridge for Your Needs

Not all commercial fridges are created equal. Cheaping out upfront can cost you thousands in repairs and replacements. When shopping:

• Size matters: A fridge that’s too small gets overloaded; one that’s too big wastes energy. Aim for 20-30% extra capacity beyond your current needs.
• Look for energy efficiency: ENERGY STAR-certified models save $100-$300/year in electricity.
• Check the warranty: A 5-year compressor warranty is ideal. Brands like True, Turbo Air, and Beverage-Air are known for durability.
• Avoid “residential-style” commercial fridges-they’re not built for 24/7 use.

2. Train Your Staff (Because They Won’t Care as Much as You Do)

The biggest threat to your fridge isn’t mechanical, it’s human error. Train your team on:

• Proper loading: No blocking vents, no overstuffing.
• Door discipline: Close doors immediately, don’t prop them open.
• Spill cleanup: Wipe spills right away.
• Temperature checks: Assign someone to log temps daily.
• Reporting issues: If something seems off (noise, temp, leaks), tell management ASAP.

Post a checklist near the fridge with daily/weekly tasks. Make maintenance part of closing duties-it takes 5 minutes and prevents disasters.

3. Optimize Your Kitchen Layout for Fridge Health

Where you place your fridge matters. Avoid:

• Direct sunlight or heat sources (ovens, grills, dishwashers). Even an extra 10°F ambient temp can reduce efficiency by 15%.
• Tight spaces: Fridges need 1-2 inches of clearance on all sides for airflow.
• High-traffic areas: Constant door openings increase energy use and wear out hinges.

Ideal placement:

• Against an interior wall (not exterior, outside temps fluctuate).
• Away from direct heat or steam.
• On a level, sturdy floor (no wobbling!).

4. Invest in a Backup Plan

Even with perfect maintenance, fridges can fail. Have a contingency plan:

• Backup fridge or cooler: For emergencies (e.g., a portable reach-in or ice chest).
• Temperature alarms: Devices like Thermoworks’ BlueTherm alert you via phone if temps rise.
• Relationship with a 24/7 repair service: Know who to call before disaster strikes.
• Insurance: Some business policies cover equipment breakdown-check yours.

5. Know When to Repair vs. Replace

At some point, repairing an old fridge costs more than replacing it. Here’s how to decide:

Repair if:

• The fridge is less than 10 years old.
• The repair cost is less than 50% of a new unit.
• The issue is minor (gasket, fan motor, thermostat).

Replace if:

• The fridge is 10+ years old and needs major repairs (compressor, refrigerant leak).
• Energy bills are rising despite maintenance (old fridges lose efficiency).
• You’re constantly repairing the same issue (e.g., compressor failures every year).
• A new, energy-efficient model would pay for itself in 2-3 years via savings.

When replacing, don’t just buy the same model. Technology improves-newer fridges are quieter, more efficient, and have better warranties. Do your research!

Final Thoughts: The Fridge Maintenance Mindset

Here’s the thing about commercial fridge maintenance: It’s not about fixing problems, it’s about preventing them. The restaurants and food businesses that last are the ones that treat their equipment like part of the team, not just a tool. A well-maintained fridge doesn’t just save you money-it saves you stress, prevents food waste, and keeps your customers safe.

I’ll be honest, there were times when I didn’t feel like cleaning the coils or checking the temp. But every time I skipped it, I regretted it. The 5 minutes a day and 30 minutes a week I spend now are nothing compared to the hours of panic I’ve endured when a fridge failed. And trust me, nothing ruins a Friday night service like a dead fridge full of thawing meat.

So, here’s my challenge to you: Pick one thing from this guide-just one, and do it today. Check the temp. Clean the coils. Test the door seal. Then, next week, add another task. Build the habit slowly. Your fridge (and your bank account) will thank you.

And if you’re reading this thinking, “Ugh, this sounds like a lot of work,” ask yourself: What’s more work, spending 10 minutes a day on maintenance, or dealing with a $2,000 emergency repair on a Saturday night?

I know which one I’d choose.

FAQ: Your Burning Commercial Fridge Questions, Answered

Q: My fridge is running constantly. Is this normal?
A: No, it’s not. A healthy fridge should cycle on and off (typically 40-60% of the time). If it’s running nonstop, check:

• Dirty condenser coils (clean them!).
• Faulty door seals (test with the dollar bill trick).
• Overloading (reduce contents, improve airflow).
• Ambient temperature (is it near a heat source?).
• Thermostat issues (test with a secondary thermometer).

If none of these fix it, call a pro-it could be a refrigerant leak or failing compressor.

Q: How often should I replace the door gaskets?
A: Typically, every 2-3 years, but it depends on usage. Signs you need new gaskets:

• They’re cracked, brittle, or torn.
• They don’t seal tightly (dollar bill test fails).
• You see mold or mildew that won’t come out.
• The fridge runs longer than usual to maintain temp.

Replacement gaskets cost $20-$50 and are easy to install (just peel off the old one and stick on the new).

Q: Can I use a residential fridge in my commercial kitchen?
A: No, and here’s why:

• Residential fridges aren’t built for 24/7 use. Their compressors burn out quickly in commercial settings.
• They lack NSF certification, which is required for health inspections in most areas.
• They don’t have the cooling power needed for high-volume storage.
• Warranties won’t cover commercial use-if it breaks, you’re on your own.

If budget is tight, look for used commercial fridges from restaurant supply stores or auctions. Even a 10-year-old commercial fridge will outlast a brand-new residential one in a kitchen.

Q: What’s the best way to clean the inside of a commercial fridge without damaging it?
A: Stick to gentle, food-safe cleaners:

• Warm water + baking soda (great for odors and light stains).
• Vinegar + water (1:1) (disinfects and deodorizes).
• Commercial fridge cleaner (like Ecolab’s Fridge Fresh).

<Avoid:

• Bleach (corrodes metal and leaves residues).
• Abrasive pads (scratch stainless steel).
• Ammonia-based cleaners (can damage seals).

For tough stains, make a baking soda paste, apply, let sit for 10 minutes, then wipe. For odors, place a box of baking soda or activated charcoal inside.

@article{commercial-refrigerator-maintenance-tips-how-to-extend-its-lifespan-without-losing-your-mind,
    title   = {Commercial Refrigerator Maintenance Tips: How to Extend Its Lifespan (Without Losing Your Mind)},
    author  = {Chef's icon},
    year    = {2025},
    journal = {Chef's Icon},
    url     = {https://chefsicon.com/commercial-refrigerator-maintenance-tips-extending-lifespan/}
}