Start Your Herb Patch: Simple Indoor & Outdoor Guide

27 min read

Hey everyone, Sammy here from Chefsicon.com. If you’re anything like me, the thought of snipping fresh herbs right from your own little garden, whether it’s on a sunny windowsill or a small patch on your balcony, is just incredibly appealing. I mean, picture this: you’re making a pasta sauce, and instead of reaching for that jar of dried oregano that’s been in your pantry since who-knows-when, you just grab a few sprigs of the fresh stuff. The difference in flavor? Night and day, my friends, night and day. This is your beginners-guide-to-starting-a-small-herb-garden-indoors-or-out, and I’m here to walk you through it, bumps, successes, and all.

When I first moved to Nashville from the Bay Area, I was all about embracing the local scene, the music, the food, everything. But I also found myself with a little more space, and a hankering for the kind of fresh ingredients I’d gotten used to. My first attempt at an herb garden was, let’s say, a learning experience. I might have drowned a poor basil plant or two. And Luna, my rescue cat, well, she seemed to think the catnip was a personal invitation for a nap… right on top of it. But persistence pays off! Now, having fresh herbs on hand is a non-negotiable part of my kitchen routine, and it’s genuinely transformed my cooking. It’s not just about the taste; it’s about the process, the connection to what you’re eating. It’s surprisingly meditative, too, especially working from home like I do.

So, what will you get out of this? My goal here isn’t just to throw a list of instructions at you. I want to share what I’ve learned, the pitfalls to avoid, and the sheer joy that comes with cultivating your own little patch of green. We’ll cover everything from figuring out if an indoor or outdoor setup is best for you, choosing the right herbs to start with (because not all herbs are created equal, especially for us beginners!), getting your hands dirty with pots and soil, understanding the crucial roles of light and water, and even how to harvest your herbs to keep them happy and productive. Think of this as a friendly chat, me sharing my experiences, so you can get your herb garden dreams off the ground with a bit more confidence and, hopefully, fewer drowned basil plants than I started with. It’s honestly easier than you think, and the rewards are so, so worth it.

Diving into Your Herb Garden Journey

Section 1: Why Bother with an Herb Garden? The Fresh Flavor Revolution!

Let’s be real, you can buy herbs at the grocery store. So why go to the trouble of growing your own? For me, it started with a simple realization: the aromatic punch and vibrant taste of freshly picked herbs are leagues beyond anything you can get in a plastic clamshell or a dusty jar. Think about the intense fragrance of basil just after you’ve snipped it, or the robust earthiness of thyme that hasn’t spent weeks in transit and storage. It’s a game-changer. My cooking, which I was already passionate about, suddenly had this new dimension of freshness. That sprig of rosemary in a roast chicken? Transformative. A handful of cilantro in homemade salsa? Absolutely essential. It’s not just about fancy meals either; even a simple omelet or a salad dressing gets an instant upgrade.

Beyond the incredible flavor, there’s a real sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. Nurturing a plant from a tiny seedling or a small starter into something that provides for you is deeply rewarding. It’s a small act of creation, a connection to the natural world, even if your garden is just a few pots on a city balcony, like my first serious setup was back in the Bay Area. And let’s not forget the cost savings. Those little packets of fresh herbs can add up, especially if you use them regularly. Growing your own means you have a constant supply at your fingertips, often for pennies. Plus, you know exactly what’s gone into them – no pesticides or weird chemicals if you choose to grow organically. This control over your food source is something I’ve come to value more and more, especially as I delve deeper into culinary culture here in Nashville. It just feels good, you know? Good for the palate, good for the wallet, and good for the soul. Honestly, once you start, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Section 2: Indoor vs. Outdoor: Making the Big Decision (Or Not!)

Alright, so you’re sold on the idea. Next big question: where are these lovely herbs going to live? Indoors, basking on a sunny windowsill, or outdoors, braving the elements on a patio or in a garden bed? This decision often comes down to a few key factors, and honestly, there’s no single right answer. It really depends on your space, your climate, and what you’re hoping to grow. For me, living in Nashville, I’ve actually dabbled in both. Our summers can be glorious for sun-loving herbs outdoors, but then winter rolls around, and having a few pots indoors keeps the fresh flavors coming.

Let’s break it down. Indoor herb gardens are fantastic for convenience and year-round access, especially for tender herbs like basil that might not appreciate a sudden cold snap. You have more control over the environment – temperature, humidity (to some extent), and protection from pests (though indoor pests can be a thing, more on that later!). The main challenge indoors? Sunlight. Most herbs are sun worshippers, needing at least 6 hours of direct light a day. A south-facing window is your best friend here. If you don’t have that, don’t despair; grow lights can be a total game-changer. Space can also be a constraint indoors, but many herbs do perfectly well in small pots.

Now, outdoor herb gardens. If you have the space – a balcony, a patio, a yard – this can be amazing. Herbs grown outdoors often tend to be more robust and flavorful, benefiting from natural sunlight, rain, and airflow. You can grow a wider variety, and some, like rosemary and thyme, really thrive outside. However, you’re also at the mercy of the weather. Unexpected frosts, scorching heatwaves, torrential downpours – these are all things you might have to contend with. Pests and diseases can also be more prevalent outdoors. And then there’s the seasonal aspect. In many climates, an outdoor herb garden is a spring-to-fall affair. So, is this the best approach? For some herbs, absolutely. I’m torn sometimes because the growth outdoors can be so vigorous, but the convenience of indoor herbs is undeniable. Maybe the answer is… a bit of both? Start some hardy perennials outside and keep your delicate annuals on the kitchen counter. It’s what I often end up doing.

Section 3: Choosing Your First Herbs: The Easiest Wins for Beginners

Okay, this is the fun part – deciding what to grow! When you’re just starting out, it’s tempting to want to grow *everything*. I’ve been there. But trust me, starting with a few easy-to-grow herbs will build your confidence and set you up for success. You want herbs that are relatively forgiving and offer a good return in terms of flavor and usability.

Top Picks for Indoors

If you’re leaning towards an indoor setup, certain herbs are just happier on a windowsill. Basil is a classic, and for good reason. It loves warmth and sun, and fresh basil is just divine in Italian dishes or pesto. Just be aware it can be a bit dramatic if its conditions aren’t perfect. Mint is another super easy one – almost too easy, as it can be quite invasive if planted in a garden bed outdoors. Indoors, in its own pot, it’s a champ. Perfect for teas, mojitos, or just a refreshing garnish. Just give it its own pot, seriously. Parsley, both curly and flat-leaf, does well indoors with decent light. It’s a workhorse in the kitchen. Chives are another great choice, offering a mild oniony flavor. They’re pretty unfussy and will keep producing as you snip them. Lastly, Oregano can do quite well indoors if it gets enough sun; its Mediterranean cousin, marjoram, is also a good bet and a bit milder. These choices are generally more tolerant of the slightly less intense light and stable temperatures found inside.

Great Choices for Outdoors

If you have an outdoor spot, especially a sunny one, your options expand. Rosemary is a fantastic perennial herb that loves full sun and well-drained soil. It’s woody, aromatic, and incredibly hardy once established. Just imagine snipping fresh rosemary for your roast potatoes! Thyme is another Mediterranean favorite that thrives outdoors. It’s a low-growing, spreading herb that’s great in pots or as a ground cover. It’s pretty drought-tolerant too, which is a bonus. Sage is another robust perennial, with lovely silvery-green leaves and a strong, earthy flavor. It’s excellent with pork or in fall dishes. While a bit more effort, some find Lavender rewarding for its aroma and culinary uses (in moderation!), though it demands excellent drainage and lots of sun. These herbs are generally tougher and can handle a bit more variation in conditions than some of the more tender indoor choices. My outdoor rosemary bush is one of my pride and joys – it’s survived Nashville winters and summers with minimal fuss, providing year-round flavor. The key with these is often good drainage and not overwatering them; they mostly prefer to be on the drier side.

Section 4: Getting Your Hands Dirty: Soil, Pots, and Planting Basics

So you’ve picked your herbs, you know roughly where they’ll live. Now for the nitty-gritty: pots, soil, and actually getting those plants in the ground (or pot!). This stage is crucial. The right foundation makes all the difference. I learned this the hard way, thinking any old pot and dirt from the backyard would do. Spoiler: it didn’t, especially for my indoor attempts.

Picking the Perfect Pot

Let’s talk containers. The number one, absolutely non-negotiable feature your pot needs is drainage holes. I cannot stress this enough. Herbs, like most plants, hate sitting in waterlogged soil. It leads to root rot, which is a swift and silent killer. If you find a beautiful pot that doesn’t have holes, you’ll need to drill some or use it as a decorative outer pot (a cachepot) with a functional nursery pot inside. Material-wise, you’ve got options. Terracotta pots are classic, porous (which helps with aeration and drying out, good for herbs that like it dry), but they can dry out quickly in hot weather and are breakable. Plastic pots are lightweight, retain moisture longer (which can be good or bad depending on the herb and your watering habits), and are inexpensive. Glazed ceramic pots look great and retain moisture well, but make sure they have drainage! Pot size matters too. Don’t put a tiny seedling in a giant pot; it can make it hard to manage moisture. Start with a pot that’s appropriate for the current size of the plant, and plan to pot up as it grows. Generally, a 6-8 inch pot is a good starting point for many individual herbs.

Soil Secrets: Not Just Any Dirt Will Do

Now for what goes *in* the pot. For container gardening, whether indoors or out, you want to use a good quality potting mix. Do NOT use soil straight from your garden. Garden soil is too heavy, compacts easily in pots, doesn’t drain well, and can harbor pests and diseases. Potting mixes are specially formulated to be light, airy, and provide good drainage and aeration for roots. Look for a mix designed for containers or vegetables/herbs. Some even have a slow-release fertilizer mixed in, though I prefer to control fertilizing myself. If you’re planting herbs directly into an outdoor garden bed, you’ll want to amend your existing soil with compost or other organic matter to improve its structure and fertility. This is especially important in Nashville where we can have a lot of clay. A well-draining, moderately fertile soil is the goal for most outdoor herbs.

Finally, planting. You can start herbs from seeds or buy starter plants from a nursery. Starting from seed is cheaper and gives you more variety, but it takes longer and some herbs can be tricky to germinate. For beginners, I often recommend buying small starter plants. It gives you a head start and instant gratification. When planting, gently loosen the roots if they’re circling the pot (root-bound), place the plant in its new pot or garden spot at the same depth it was in its original container, and fill in around it with your chosen soil or potting mix. Water it in well to settle the soil. And that’s it! Your herb is planted. It feels good, doesn’t it?

Section 5: Let There Be Light! Illuminating Your Indoor Herb Garden

If you’re growing herbs indoors, light is probably your biggest challenge and your most critical factor for success. Most culinary herbs are native to sunny Mediterranean climates, so they crave brightness. Think of sunlight as food for your plants. Without enough of it, they’ll become weak, spindly (we call this ‘leggy’), and just won’t produce those flavorful leaves you’re after. I always tell people, if you can give your indoor herbs enough light, you’ve won half the battle.

The ideal spot for an indoor herb garden is a south-facing window, as this generally provides the most intense and longest duration of light throughout the day. East-facing windows get good morning sun, and west-facing windows get afternoon sun, which can also work, though you might need to be more selective about which herbs you place there. North-facing windows? Generally not enough light for most herbs, unfortunately. Aim for at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Watch how the light moves across your windowsills during the day to find the sweet spots. You might even need to rotate your plants occasionally so all sides get some exposure. It’s a bit like finding the perfect spot for Luna to sunbathe; she always knows where the best patch of sun is.

What if you don’t have a sunny windowsill, or you live in an apartment that just doesn’t get much natural light? Don’t give up! This is where grow lights come to the rescue. Technology, eh? It’s pretty amazing. Grow lights provide the specific spectrums of light that plants need for photosynthesis. There are many types available, from simple fluorescent tubes to more sophisticated LED panels. For a small herb garden, a clip-on LED grow light or a small LED panel can be perfectly adequate and relatively inexpensive. I’ve used a few different kinds over the years, and the LEDs are fantastic because they’re energy-efficient and don’t produce much heat. You’ll typically want to position the light a few inches above your plants and keep it on for 10-14 hours a day, depending on the intensity and the needs of your herbs. Signs your herbs aren’t getting enough light include pale leaves, weak, elongated stems, and slow growth. Conversely, if leaves look scorched or crispy at the edges, they might be getting too much intense, direct sun or are too close to a powerful grow light. It’s a balance, like most things in gardening, and in life, I suppose!

Section 6: Quenching Their Thirst: The Art and Science of Watering

After light, watering is probably the area where most beginners stumble. It’s so easy to either love your plants to death with too much water or forget them until they’re crispy. Both overwatering and underwatering can be detrimental, but overwatering is generally the more common and fatal mistake, especially for herbs that prefer drier conditions. Remember those drainage holes we talked about? Crucial for preventing soggy soil, which leads to root rot, the arch-nemesis of happy herbs.

So, how do you know when to water? The best way is to check the soil moisture. Forget watering on a strict schedule (e.g., “every Tuesday”). Instead, stick your finger about an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry at that depth, it’s probably time to water. If it still feels moist, hold off. Small pots will dry out faster than large pots. Terracotta pots dry out faster than plastic. Herbs in direct sun or under grow lights will need water more often than those in shadier spots. It’s all connected. Another little trick is to notice the weight of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel heavier than one that’s dried out. After a while, you’ll get a feel for it. When you do water, water thoroughly until you see water seeping out of the drainage holes at the bottom. This ensures the entire root ball gets moistened. Then, allow the soil to dry out appropriately before watering again. For most common herbs like basil, parsley, and mint, you want the top inch of soil to dry out. For Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, thyme, and sage, they prefer to dry out even more between waterings.

One common mistake is to give just little sips of water frequently. This encourages shallow root growth and doesn’t properly hydrate the plant. Deep, infrequent watering is generally better. Also, try to water the soil directly, not the leaves, especially for indoor plants, as wet foliage can sometimes encourage fungal diseases. I usually use a watering can with a long, thin spout to get right to the base of the plants. It’s a bit like making the perfect pour-over coffee; technique matters! And if you accidentally overwater? If the pot is sitting in a saucer full of water, empty it immediately. You don’t want your herbs to have ‘wet feet’. This is one of those areas where observation and a light touch really pay off. I’m still learning with some of the fussier plants, to be honest. It’s an ongoing conversation with your green companions.

Section 7: Feeding Your Green Friends: To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize?

This is a question I get a lot: do herbs need fertilizer? And the answer, like many things in gardening, is… it depends. But generally, for most culinary herbs, less is more when it comes to fertilizing. Many herbs, especially those Mediterranean powerhouses like rosemary, thyme, oregano, and sage, actually develop their best flavor in soil that’s not overly rich. Too much nitrogen, for example, can lead to lots of leafy green growth but less of those concentrated essential oils that give herbs their characteristic aroma and taste. So, if you’re dreaming of intensely flavored herbs, don’t go overboard with the plant food.

If you’re using a good quality potting mix for your container herbs, it often comes with enough nutrients to sustain your plants for the first few weeks or even months. After that, a light feeding every now and then can be beneficial, especially for herbs that are growing vigorously and being harvested regularly. I personally prefer to use organic fertilizers. Things like compost tea (made by steeping compost in water), diluted fish emulsion (a bit smelly, but plants love it!), or worm castings are gentle and provide a good range of micronutrients. If you opt for a commercial fertilizer, choose one that’s balanced or formulated for vegetables and herbs, and always dilute it more than the package instructions recommend, especially for herbs. Maybe half-strength or even quarter-strength is plenty.

When should you fertilize? For fast-growing annuals like basil or parsley that you’re cutting from often, a light feeding every 4-6 weeks during the growing season can help them keep producing. For slower-growing perennial herbs like rosemary or thyme, once or twice during the growing season is usually sufficient, if at all. Pay attention to your plants. If they look healthy, green, and are growing well, they probably don’t need extra food. Signs of nutrient deficiency can include yellowing leaves (though this can also be caused by overwatering or lack of light), or very slow, stunted growth. Conversely, if you over-fertilize, you might see leaf burn (crispy brown edges) or, as mentioned, lots of weak, sappy growth with poor flavor. I always err on the side of caution. Is this the best approach? I think for herbs, it usually is. I’m always a bit hesitant with fertilizers, preferring to build good soil health with compost when planting outdoors, and relying on good potting mix indoors. It feels more natural, and the herbs seem to respond well to that less-is-more philosophy.

Section 8: The Joy of Harvest: Snipping for Flavor and Growth

This is the payoff! The moment you get to actually use the herbs you’ve been nurturing. Harvesting isn’t just about getting ingredients for your next meal; it’s also crucial for the health and continued productivity of your plants. Regular, proper harvesting actually encourages many herbs to become bushier and produce even more leaves. It’s a win-win. Think of it as strategic pruning that also happens to taste delicious.

So, when can you start snipping? Generally, once a plant has a good number of leaves and looks well-established, you can begin light harvesting. For most leafy herbs like basil, mint, parsley, and oregano, you can start picking leaves as soon as the plant is a few inches tall and has several sets of true leaves. With woody herbs like rosemary and thyme, you can snip sprigs once the plant is established and actively growing. The key is to never remove more than one-third of the plant’s total foliage at any one time. Taking too much can stress the plant and hinder its ability to photosynthesize and regrow. It’s better to harvest little and often rather than taking a huge amount all at once.

How you harvest also matters. For leafy herbs like basil and mint, pinch or snip stems just above a set of leaves or a node (where leaves attach to the stem). This will encourage the plant to branch out from that point, leading to a fuller, bushier plant. For parsley and chives, cut the outer leaves or stems at the base of the plant. New growth will emerge from the center (the crown). For woody herbs like rosemary, thyme, and sage, snip off the younger, tender sprigs. Avoid cutting into old, woody growth unless you’re doing more significant pruning to shape the plant. The best time of day to harvest is usually in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too hot. This is when the essential oils, and thus the flavor and aroma, are at their peak. Use sharp scissors or snips for clean cuts to avoid damaging the plant. And then, the best part: rush those fragrant cuttings straight to the kitchen! The immediate use of fresh herbs is unparalleled. If you have more than you can use right away, you can store them in the fridge (wrapped in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag) for a few days, or explore simple preservation methods like air-drying or freezing in ice cube trays with a little water or oil.

Section 9: Troubleshooting Common Herb Garden Woes

Even with the best care, sometimes things go a bit sideways in the herb garden. Don’t worry, it happens to all of us! Learning to identify and address common problems is part of the gardening journey. I still encounter new challenges, and it often feels like being a plant detective, trying to figure out the clues. Here are a few common culprits you might encounter and some ideas on how to tackle them.

First up, pests. Indoors, you might see tiny little critters like aphids (small, pear-shaped insects, often green or black, usually clustered on new growth) or spider mites ( minuscule, spider-like pests that create fine webbing, especially in dry conditions). Often, a strong spray of water can dislodge them. If they persist, insecticidal soap (a gentle, plant-safe soap) or neem oil solution can be effective. Outdoors, you might encounter a wider array of pests, but healthy plants are generally more resilient. Encouraging beneficial insects like ladybugs can help keep pest populations in check.

Then there are diseases. Powdery mildew is a common fungal issue that looks like a white, dusty coating on leaves, often appearing when there’s poor air circulation and high humidity. Improving airflow, avoiding wetting the leaves when watering, and sometimes a spray of milk solution (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or neem oil can help. Root rot, as we’ve discussed, is caused by overwatering and poorly draining soil. Prevention is key here: ensure good drainage and don’t let your plants sit in water. Once root rot sets in, it’s very difficult to reverse, though repotting into fresh, dry soil after trimming away affected roots can sometimes save a plant if caught early.

Other common issues include leggy plants, where stems are long and stretched with few leaves. This is almost always a sign of insufficient light. Move the plant to a sunnier spot or supplement with a grow light. Yellowing leaves can have multiple causes: overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency, or sometimes just old leaves naturally dying off. You’ll need to assess the other conditions – soil moisture, light, fertilizing history – to diagnose the cause. It’s a process of observation and adjustment. Don’t be discouraged if you face a problem; each one is a learning opportunity. My first basil plants looked so sad and leggy until I finally understood just how much sun they really needed. It was a revelation!

Section 10: Expanding Your Herb Empire: Next Steps and Fun Ideas

Once you’ve got the hang of growing a few basic herbs and you’re enjoying those fresh flavors, you might find yourself bitten by the gardening bug. I know I did! My small collection of windowsill pots soon started to expand. So, what’s next once you’ve mastered the beginner-friendly varieties? There’s a whole world of herbs out there to explore, each with its own unique flavors, uses, and growing requirements.

You could start by trying some slightly more challenging or unusual herbs. Maybe some French tarragon (trickier than Russian tarragon, but with superior flavor), or lemongrass if you have a warm, sunny spot. Or perhaps some medicinal herbs like chamomile or echinacea, if that interests you. Do a little research into their specific needs before diving in. Another fun and sustainable step is learning about propagation. Many herbs, like mint, rosemary, and basil, can be easily propagated from cuttings. You just snip a healthy stem, pop it in water until roots develop, and then plant it. It’s like magic, and a great way to get more plants for free or to share with friends. I love giving little pots of propagated herbs as gifts.

Why not create themed herb gardens? An Italian garden with different varieties of basil, oregano, parsley, and rosemary. A tea garden with mint, chamomile, and lemon balm. A cocktail garden with mint, basil, rosemary, and lavender for unique infusions. The possibilities are endless and allow you to focus your growing efforts on flavors you use most. You can also get creative with how you use your harvest beyond just cooking. Try making your own infused oils or vinegars by steeping fresh herbs in good quality oil or vinegar for a few weeks. They make fantastic salad dressings or marinades. Or dry your herbs for longer-term storage, though I always find fresh is best. My personal dream, now that I have a bit more outdoor space here in Nashville, is to build an herb spiral. It’s a raised garden bed built in a spiral shape that creates different microclimates, allowing you to grow a variety of herbs with different needs all in one compact structure. Someday! For now, though, even just adding one new herb to your collection each season can be a rewarding way to keep learning and expanding your culinary horizons. The journey is ongoing, and that’s the beauty of it.

Where Do You Grow From Here?

So there you have it – a whirlwind tour of starting your own small herb garden, whether it’s a few pots on your kitchen counter or a dedicated patch outdoors. We’ve talked about the why, the where, the what, and the how. From understanding the simple joy of fresh flavors to navigating the practicalities of light, water, and soil, I hope this has demystified the process a bit and made it feel more approachable. Remember, my first attempts weren’t perfect – far from it. There were casualties (RIP, my first oregano plant, you deserved better). But each little setback was a lesson learned. The key is to start small, observe your plants, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Even Luna seems to appreciate the greenery around the house now, though I still have to keep the catnip well out of her reach, or she’ll try to ‘help’ with the harvest.

The beauty of growing herbs is that it’s a relatively low-stakes, high-reward endeavor. Even if you only manage to keep one basil plant alive and thriving, the satisfaction of snipping those leaves for your dinner is immense. It connects you to your food in a really tangible way, something I’ve found incredibly grounding, especially in our fast-paced world. So, here’s my challenge to you, if you’ve been on the fence: just start with one plant. Pick an easy one like mint or parsley, find a sunny spot, and see what happens. What’s the worst that can happen? You learn something. And what’s the best? You unlock a whole new world of flavor and a deeply satisfying hobby. Will every herb thrive? Maybe not immediately. But will you enjoy the process and the fresh tastes? I’m betting yes. Let me know how it goes!

FAQ

Q: How much sunlight do indoor herbs really need?
A: Most culinary herbs need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day to thrive indoors. A south-facing window is ideal. If you don’t have that, you’ll likely need to supplement with a grow light for 10-14 hours daily to keep them healthy and productive.

Q: Can I use soil from my garden for indoor herb pots?
A: It’s generally not recommended. Garden soil is often too heavy, compacts easily in pots, can have poor drainage, and may contain weed seeds, pests, or diseases. Always use a good quality, sterile potting mix specifically designed for containers when growing herbs indoors.

Q: What are the easiest herbs for a complete beginner?
A: Some of the easiest and most forgiving herbs for beginners include mint (keep it in its own pot!), chives, parsley, and basil (if you have good light). For outdoors, thyme and sage are also quite hardy and low-maintenance once established.

Q: How often should I water my herbs?
A: There’s no fixed schedule. The best way is to check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about an inch down. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out before watering again. Overwatering is a more common problem than underwatering for beginners.

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@article{start-your-herb-patch-simple-indoor-outdoor-guide,
    title   = {Start Your Herb Patch: Simple Indoor & Outdoor Guide},
    author  = {Chef's icon},
    year    = {2025},
    journal = {Chef's Icon},
    url     = {https://chefsicon.com/beginners-guide-to-starting-a-small-herb-garden-indoors-or-out/}
}

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