Knife Edge Know-How: Sharpening and Honing That Works

Hey everyone, Sammy here, reporting live from my Nashville home office – which, let’s be honest, is mostly just my kitchen table these days, much to Luna’s (my cat, for the uninitiated) amusement. She seems to think my keyboard is a heated napping spot. Anyway, today I want to dive into something that’s fundamental to anyone who spends even a little time in the kitchen: proper knife sharpening and honing techniques. It sounds a bit intimidating, maybe even a chore, but trust me, once you get the hang of it, it’s incredibly satisfying. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of a perfectly sharpened knife gliding through ingredients. It’s safer, more efficient, and frankly, makes cooking a whole lot more enjoyable.

I remember when I first moved to Nashville from the Bay Area, I was all gung-ho about setting up my kitchen. I had my fancy pans, my collection of spices, but my knives? They were… serviceable. That is until I tried to slice a ripe tomato and ended up with a squishy mess. It was a humbling moment. I realized I’d been neglecting a crucial skill. I’d always kind of lumped sharpening and honing together, thinking they were basically the same thing. Boy, was I wrong. It took some trial and error, a few YouTube deep dives, and maybe sacrificing the edge of an old paring knife (RIP), but I finally started to understand the nuances. It’s one of those things, you know? You think you know, but you don’t *really* know until you get your hands dirty.

So, what’s the plan for today? We’re going to break it all down. We’ll talk about the difference between sharpening and honing (because it’s a big one!), the tools you’ll need (and which ones are actually worth your money), how to find that elusive perfect angle, and step-by-step guides for both sharpening on a whetstone and using a honing steel. We’ll even touch on electric sharpeners, safety (super important!), and how to care for your knives once you’ve got them singing. My goal here isn’t just to throw a bunch of technical jargon at you; it’s to give you the confidence to take control of your knife edges. Think of this as a conversation, like we’re hanging out in my kitchen, maybe with some good Nashville hot chicken on the go (though probably not while handling sharp knives, eh?). Let’s get those blades in top shape!

The Nitty-Gritty of Knife Edges

Understanding the Basics: Sharpening vs. Honing – What’s the Real Deal?

Okay, let’s tackle the big one right out of the gate: sharpening versus honing. I swear, half the battle is just understanding that these are two distinct processes. For years, I’d see chefs on TV vigorously running their knives up and down a steel rod and think, ‘Ah, sharpening!’ But most of the time, what they’re doing is actually honing. Sharpening is the process of actually removing a small amount of metal from the blade to create a brand new, sharp edge. Think of it like taking a very, very fine grinder to your knife. This is what you do when your knife is genuinely dull, when it just won’t cut cleanly anymore, no matter how much you try to coax it.

Honing, on the other hand, doesn’t really remove significant metal. Instead, it realigns the existing microscopic edge of the blade. Imagine the very tip of your knife edge is made of tiny teeth, like a saw, but on a microscopic level. With use, these teeth can get bent or knocked out of alignment. A honing steel, sometimes called a sharpening steel (which, as I said, is a bit of a misnomer and adds to the confusion!), pushes those tiny teeth back into a straight line. It’s more about maintenance and keeping an already sharp knife performing at its best. So, sharpening creates the edge, and honing maintains it. It’s a bit like sharpening is going to the dentist for a major procedure, and honing is like brushing your teeth every day. You need both, but for different reasons and at different frequencies. Is this making sense? I hope so, because getting this distinction down is really the foundation for everything else.

Why is this difference so crucial? Well, if you try to sharpen your knife every single day, you’re going to wear it down incredibly fast. You’ll be grinding away precious metal unnecessarily. Conversely, if you only ever hone a truly dull knife, you’re just straightening out a blunt edge – it’s not going to magically become sharp. You’ll be working hard, making all the right motions, but achieving very little in terms of actual cutting power. Understanding when to sharpen and when to hone is key to knife longevity and peak performance. It saves you time, effort, and ultimately, the life of your beloved blades. I used to think my knives just got dull super quickly, but turns out, I was honing when I should have been sharpening, and probably not honing enough in between. A little knowledge goes a long way, eh?

Gathering Your Arsenal: The Tools of the Trade

Alright, so you’re ready to take on the world of sharp knives. But what do you actually need? The market is flooded with gadgets and gizmos, and it can be pretty overwhelming. Let’s break down the essentials. First up, whetstones. These are the classic sharpening tools, and for good reason. They come in various materials, like natural stone, ceramic, or diamond, and are often categorized as water stones (which need soaking in water) or oil stones (which use oil as a lubricant). Whetstones also come in different grits. A coarse grit (say, 200-1000) is for repairing damaged edges or sharpening very dull knives. A medium grit (1000-3000) is your workhorse for regular sharpening. And a fine grit (4000 and above) is for refining and polishing the edge to razor sharpness. I personally lean towards Japanese water stones; I just like the feel and the feedback they give. My first one was a combination King stone, a 1000/6000 grit, and it served me well for years. It’s still in my toolkit, actually.

Next, we have honing steels. Remember, these are for daily or frequent maintenance, not for actual sharpening. You’ll find them in steel, ceramic, and diamond-coated versions. Standard steel rods are great for most knives. Ceramic rods are a bit harder and finer, so they can provide a slightly more refined edge and are good for harder steel knives. Diamond ‘steels’ are actually abrasive and will remove a tiny bit of metal, so they’re almost like a very, very fine sharpener. I tend to use a standard steel rod for my German knives and a ceramic one for my Japanese blades, which often have harder, more brittle steel. The key is to choose one that’s at least as long as your longest knife.

Then there are sharpening systems, both manual and electric. Manual systems often use guided rods or clamps to help you maintain a consistent angle. These can be great for beginners or for folks who want precision without years of freehand practice. Brands like Lansky or Spyderco Sharpmaker fall into this category. Electric sharpeners, on the other hand, use motorized abrasive wheels. They are fast and convenient, no doubt. But, and this is a big but for me, they can also remove a lot of metal very quickly, and you often have less control over the angle and the process. Some high-end electric sharpeners are pretty good, offering multiple stages, but I generally caution people, especially with their prized knives. Maybe I’m a bit old-school, but I like the control and the meditative process of using a whetstone. Though, I confess, if I had a pile of really beat-up knives to restore, an electric sharpener might look tempting for the initial heavy lifting. For beginners struggling with angles, an angle guide – a simple clip-on device – can be a surprisingly helpful little tool when starting with whetstones.

The Art of the Angle: Finding Your Sharpening Sweet Spot

This is where things can get a little tricky, but it’s arguably the most important part of sharpening: the angle. You can have the best whetstone in the world, but if your angle is inconsistent or just plain wrong, you won’t get a sharp knife. You might even make it duller. So, why is 15 or 20 degrees not just some arbitrary number? That angle determines the geometry of your knife’s cutting edge. A smaller angle (like 15 degrees per side, common for many Japanese knives) results in a very fine, incredibly sharp edge, but it can also be more delicate and prone to chipping if used improperly. A larger angle (like 20 degrees per side, typical for many Western or German knives) creates a more robust, durable edge that can withstand a bit more abuse, though it might not feel quite as surgically sharp.

The key is consistency. Whatever angle you choose for your knife (and it’s often best to try and match the manufacturer’s original angle, at least to start), you need to maintain it with every single stroke on the whetstone. This is where the practice comes in. How do you find and hold that angle? Some people use the trick of visualizing a matchbook under the spine of the knife for a roughly 20-degree angle, or half that for 10 degrees (though that’s pretty acute). There are also little plastic or metal angle guides that clip onto the spine of your knife. These can be super helpful when you’re starting out, to build that muscle memory. Eventually, you’ll develop a feel for it. I spent a lot of time just practicing the motion with an old knife, focusing on keeping my wrist locked and moving my whole arm. It sounds a bit like learning a golf swing, doesn’t it? Lots of small mechanics that add up.

What happens if you get the angle wrong? If it’s too steep (too high), you’ll be rounding off the edge, making it blunt. If it’s too shallow (too low), you’ll be sharpening the side of the blade above the edge, and it’ll take forever to actually reach the cutting edge itself, or you might create a very weak edge. Inconsistency is also a killer – wobbling the knife up and down as you stroke will create a rounded, ineffective edge. Am I explaining this clearly? It’s one of those things that’s easier shown than told, but the takeaway is: pick an appropriate angle for your knife and then practice, practice, practice holding it steady. It’s the secret sauce to a truly wicked edge. Don’t be afraid to start with a cheaper knife to get the hang of it. That’s what I did, and it saved my good knives a lot of grief in the early days.

Whetstone Wizardry: A Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide

Alright, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty – literally! Using a whetstone can seem daunting, but if you break it down, it’s a pretty straightforward process. First, you need to prepare your stone. If you’re using a water stone, this usually means soaking it in water for about 5-15 minutes, or until it stops bubbling. This water acts as a lubricant, carrying away the metal particles (called swarf) and preventing the stone from clogging. If it’s an oil stone, you’ll apply a thin layer of honing oil. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific stone. Place the stone on a stable, non-slip surface. A damp towel underneath works wonders, or many stones come with a rubber base.

Now, for the sharpening itself. Hold the knife with the cutting edge facing away from you, at your chosen angle (remember our angle discussion?). Place the heel of the blade (the part closest to the handle) on the stone. With gentle, consistent pressure, sweep the knife across the stone as if you’re trying to slice a very thin layer off the top of the stone. You want to move the knife so that the entire edge, from heel to tip, makes contact with the stone in one smooth motion. Repeat this several times on one side. The goal here is to raise a burr. A burr is a very thin ridge of metal that forms on the opposite side of the edge you’re sharpening. You can feel for it by carefully running your fingernail off the edge (away from the sharp side, of course!). It’ll feel like a tiny wire. Burr formation is your signal that you’ve sharpened that side sufficiently and reached the very apex of the edge.

Once you’ve raised a burr along the entire length of one side, flip the knife over and repeat the process on the other side, matching the same angle and pressure. This time, the burr will flip to the first side. You’ll continue alternating sides, perhaps with slightly less pressure each time, to refine the edge and reduce the size of the burr. If you started on a coarse stone, you’ll then want to repeat this whole process on your medium grit stone, and then your fine grit stone, to get that super-smooth, polished edge. Each finer grit removes the scratches from the previous grit and makes the edge even keener. Finally, to test sharpness, you can try the paper test (a sharp knife should slice cleanly through paper held vertically) or carefully try it on a tomato. Be extremely cautious here! After you’re done, rinse your knife thoroughly to remove any metal particles and dry it immediately. Clean your whetstone too, usually just with water and maybe a gentle scrub. It sounds like a lot, but it becomes quite rhythmic. I remember my first successful burr – I felt like a magician! It’s a small victory, but a satisfying one.

Honing Like a Pro: The Daily Ritual for a Keen Edge

Now that we’ve covered the major surgery of sharpening, let’s talk about the daily check-up: honing. This is what you should be doing regularly, maybe even every time you use your knife, or at least once a day if you cook a lot. Remember, honing isn’t about removing metal; it’s about edge alignment. That beautiful edge you just created on the whetstone will, with use, start to microscopically fold over or get wavy. Honing straightens it back out. Think of it as tuning an instrument to keep it sounding its best. It’s a quick process, just a few strokes, but it makes a huge difference in maintaining that sharp feel between actual sharpenings.

So, how do you do it? Grab your honing steel. The angle for honing is often similar to or slightly greater than your sharpening angle. So if you sharpen at 15 degrees, you might hone at 15-20 degrees. The pressure should be light – you’re just guiding the blade, not trying to carve into the steel. There are two main ways to hold the steel: some people hold it vertically, tip down on a cutting board or towel (for stability), and draw the knife down and across the steel, alternating sides. Others, often chefs, hold the steel out in front of them and sweep the knife along it. I personally prefer the vertical method, especially when I was learning, as it felt more stable and easier to control the angle. Find what’s comfortable and safe for you.

You’ll want to draw the knife from its heel to its tip along the steel, alternating sides. Maybe 5-10 strokes per side is usually plenty. You’re not looking for a burr here. You might hear a gentle *shiiing* sound if you’re doing it right – it’s quite satisfying. If you hear a harsh grinding sound, you’re probably using too much pressure or too shallow an angle. The key is consistency in angle and light, even strokes. Doing this regularly will dramatically extend the time between sharpenings and keep your knives feeling wonderfully responsive. It’s such a quick thing, takes less than a minute, but the payoff is huge. I keep my honing steel right next to my knife block, so it’s always a visual reminder. It’s become such a habit now, like brushing my teeth, as I said before. Luna usually watches me with intense curiosity, probably wondering what that shiny stick is for.

Electric Sharpeners: Convenience or Compromise?

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room for some folks: electric sharpeners. I know, I know, I’m a bit of a whetstone purist, but I also live in the real world where convenience is king for many. And electric sharpeners are undeniably convenient. You plug them in, pull your knife through a couple of slots, and voila, a sharper knife. Or so the theory goes. Most electric sharpeners work by using small, motorized abrasive wheels or belts that are set at pre-determined angles. They often have multiple stages, mimicking the coarse-to-fine progression of whetstones.

The pros? Speed and ease of use, especially if you’re not confident with freehand sharpening or don’t want to invest the time to learn. For someone with a lot of knives, or who just wants a quick touch-up without much fuss, they can seem like a godsend. Some of the higher-end models do a decent job, especially if your knives match the angles the sharpener is designed for. However, there are cons, and for me, they often outweigh the pros, especially for my good knives. The biggest issue is that electric sharpeners tend to be quite aggressive and can remove a significant amount of metal from your blade much faster than manual methods. This means you’ll wear down your knives more quickly over time. You also have less control over the angle. If your knife has a custom angle or is a delicate Japanese blade, a generic electric sharpener might not be the best choice and could potentially reshape or even damage the edge profile.

I’m torn, you see. I appreciate the technology and the problem they’re trying to solve. For a busy commercial kitchen, maybe, or for someone who just wants a reasonably sharp utility knife without any fuss, I can see the appeal. But for my cherished chef’s knives, the ones I’ve invested in and rely on? I’m hesitant. If you do decide to go the electric route, my advice would be to do your research. Look for models with multiple stages, good reviews, and perhaps diamond abrasives which can be more precise. And maybe test it on a less expensive knife first to get a feel for how it behaves. It’s a bit like automatic transmissions in cars – incredibly convenient, gets the job done for most, but some enthusiasts will always prefer the control and engagement of a manual. I guess I’m in the ‘manual transmission’ camp for knives.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Techniques and Considerations

So you’ve mastered the whetstone, you’re honing like a champ, what’s next? Well, the world of knife sharpening has a few more layers if you’re inclined to peel them back. For instance, different types of steel can behave differently. High-carbon steel, beloved for its ability to take a very keen edge and hold it well, can be a joy to sharpen but is also more prone to rust if not cared for properly. Stainless steel is more forgiving in terms of corrosion but can sometimes be a bit trickier to get that super-fine edge on, depending on the alloy. Knowing your knife’s steel can inform your choice of sharpening stones and techniques slightly.

What about those pesky serrated knives? Sharpening them is a different beast altogether. You can’t really use a flat whetstone effectively on the serrations. They typically require a specialized tool, often a tapered ceramic or diamond rod that fits into the individual scallops or serrations. You sharpen each serration one by one, usually just on the beveled side. The flat side is then lightly de-burred. It’s a bit tedious, and frankly, many people just opt to replace cheap serrated knives or send expensive ones out for professional sharpening. I usually only touch up my bread knife very occasionally; it doesn’t see the same kind of wear as my chef’s knife.

Then there’s stropping. This is a step beyond fine-grit whetstones, used to achieve an incredibly polished, razor-sharp edge. A strop is typically a piece of leather, often mounted on a block of wood, though you can also find strops made of other materials like balsa wood or even denim. You apply a fine abrasive compound (like chromium oxide) to the strop and then draw the knife backward along it, edge trailing, at the same angle you sharpened at. This removes any lingering micro-burr and polishes the very apex of the edge to an almost mirror finish. It’s a bit like what barbers do with straight razors. Is it strictly necessary for a home cook? Probably not for most everyday tasks. But if you’re a knife enthusiast or really want that ultimate sharpness, stropping is the way to go. Some people also talk about creating a micro-bevel, which is a very tiny secondary bevel applied at a slightly higher angle right at the edge, after the main sharpening. This can add a bit of durability to a very acute primary bevel. Is this too much detail? Maybe for some, but for those who really want to geek out on knife edges, these are interesting avenues to explore. It’s a rabbit hole, but a fascinating one!

Safety First! Avoiding Nicks and Cuts (Yours, Not the Knife’s)

This should probably go without saying, but we’re dealing with sharp objects here, and they’re about to get even sharper. So, safety is paramount. It’s easy to get focused on the blade and the stone and forget about your fingers. First things first, always ensure you have a proper, secure grip on the knife handle. Your fingers should be well away from the path of the edge. When you’re moving the knife across the stone or steel, always sharpen or hone with the edge moving away from your body and your guiding hand. This might seem obvious, but in a moment of lapsed concentration, accidents can happen.

Make sure your sharpening stone or honing steel is on a stable, non-slip surface. A whetstone skittering across the counter while you have a knife in hand is a recipe for disaster. That damp towel trick I mentioned earlier really does work wonders. Some people advocate for wearing cut-resistant gloves, especially on the hand holding the stone or guiding the blade (not the knife-holding hand, as that needs dexterity). Are they worth it? I think for beginners, or if you’re working with a particularly tricky knife or just feeling a bit unsure, they can provide a great deal of peace of mind. They’re not foolproof, but they can certainly prevent a nasty slice. I don’t always use one now, but I definitely did when I was starting out, and I still might if I’m restoring a really damaged blade that requires more force.

And of course, once you’ve successfully sharpened your knife, remember that it is now razor-sharp, probably much sharper than you’re used to. Handle it with extra respect. Don’t try to catch a falling knife – ever. Just let it drop. And if, despite all precautions, you do get a small nick, clean it immediately, apply pressure, and use an antiseptic and a bandage. Most sharpening cuts are minor, but it’s good to be prepared. Honestly, I find I cut myself less often with sharp knives than with dull ones, because dull knives require more pressure, making them more likely to slip unpredictably. A sharp knife does the work for you, gliding through with control. So, in a way, learning to sharpen properly is a safety measure in itself.

Knife Care Post-Sharpening: Maintaining That Perfect Edge

You’ve put in the effort, you’ve got that beautiful, sharp edge – now how do you keep it that way for as long as possible? Proper knife care after sharpening, and indeed after every use, is just as important as the sharpening process itself. The first rule: always hand wash your good knives. Please, please, please do not put them in the dishwasher. The harsh detergents, high heat, and the potential for banging against other items can dull the edge, damage the handle, and even cause corrosion. Just a quick wash with warm soapy water is all they need. And critically, dry them immediately and thoroughly. Don’t let them air dry, as this can lead to water spots or even rust, especially on high-carbon steel knives.

Storage is another biggie. Tossing your beautifully sharpened knives into a drawer with a jumble of other utensils is a cardinal sin in the knife world. The edges will get knocked around, dulled, and even chipped. Invest in good storage. A wooden knife block is a classic choice, just make sure the slots are horizontal or that you insert the knives spine-first to protect the edge. Magnetic knife strips mounted on the wall are another excellent option – they save counter space and keep your knives easily accessible, plus they look pretty cool, I think. Individual knife sheaths or sayas are also great, especially if you do need to store knives in a drawer or transport them.

Finally, be mindful of your cutting surfaces. Avoid cutting on hard surfaces like glass, ceramic, stone countertops, or metal. These will dull your knife edge in an instant. Stick to wood or plastic cutting boards. End-grain wood cutting boards are particularly kind to knife edges. And use your knives for their intended purpose. Your chef’s knife isn’t a pry bar or a screwdriver. Treating your knives with this kind of gentle handling and respect will significantly preserve that keen edge you worked so hard to achieve, meaning you’ll need to do full sharpening sessions less frequently. More honing, less sharpening – that’s the goal for a happy knife life.

Troubleshooting Common Sharpening Problems

Even with the best intentions and careful practice, sometimes things don’t go quite as planned during sharpening. We’ve all been there, staring at a knife that just stubbornly refuses to get sharp, or wondering why the edge feels… weird. Let’s cover a few common problems. One of the most frequent is the knife still feeling dull after a sharpening session. The most likely culprits here are an incorrect angle (too steep, perhaps), not applying enough consistent pressure to actually remove metal, or, very commonly, not successfully raising a burr along the entire edge. If you don’t raise that burr, you haven’t actually reached the apex of the edge on that side.

Another common issue is an uneven edge – one part of the blade is sharper than another, or the bevel looks wavy. This usually points to inconsistency in your angle or pressure as you move the knife across the stone. Maybe you’re lifting the handle or pressing harder on certain parts of the blade without realizing it. Slowing down and focusing on smooth, even strokes can help here. Sometimes, you might encounter small chips or nicks in the blade, especially if it’s been abused or dropped. For minor nicks, you might be able to grind them out by starting on a very coarse stone, but this will remove more metal. For larger chips, or if you’re uncomfortable, professional sharpening might be the best bet. It’s important not to try and force it too much, as you could make it worse.

What if it feels like it’s taking an eternity to sharpen your knife? This could be because the knife is exceptionally dull to begin with, in which case, patience and a coarser stone are your friends. Or, your stone might be clogged with metal particles (swarf) and needs a good cleaning or flattening. Some stones also just cut slower than others. Diamond stones, for example, tend to cut very quickly. Don’t get discouraged! Sharpening is a skill that develops over time. Each less-than-perfect session is a learning opportunity. I remember being incredibly frustrated early on, but persistence (and re-watching a few videos) eventually paid off. It’s a journey, not a race, and even a slightly improved edge is better than a completely dull one.

Final Thoughts from the Kitchen

Well, we’ve covered a lot of ground, haven’t we? From the fundamental difference between sharpening and honing to the nitty-gritty of whetstone angles and the convenience (or compromise) of electric sharpeners. My hope is that this hasn’t just been a deluge of information, but rather an encouragement. An encouragement to look at those knives in your block not as adversaries in a constant battle against dullness, but as faithful tools that, with a little understanding and care, will serve you incredibly well. That feeling of a perfectly sharp knife gliding effortlessly through an onion, or making paper-thin slices of a tomato – it’s a small joy, but it’s one of those things that makes cooking more of a pleasure and less of a chore. And honestly, who doesn’t want more pleasure in their day-to-day?

So here’s my personal challenge to you, if you’re up for it. Pick one knife. Maybe it’s your main chef’s knife, or perhaps a paring knife that’s seen better days. And just try. Try to identify if it needs honing or a full sharpening. If it’s the latter, get yourself a basic whetstone – a combination stone is a great starting point. Watch a couple of videos (besides re-reading this, of course!), focus on that angle, and feel for that burr. Don’t aim for perfection on your first try. Aim for improvement. Aim for understanding. The worst that can happen is you learn something, and your knife is no duller than when you started (and hopefully, a bit sharper!).

I often wonder, as I’m standing here in my Nashville kitchen, Luna winding around my ankles, what small skills or pieces of knowledge truly elevate our daily experiences. For me, understanding how to care for my tools, especially my knives, is definitely one of them. It connects me more to the process of cooking, to the food itself. What’s your go-to sharpening method or a tip you swear by? I’m always curious to hear what works for others in their culinary adventures. Drop a comment if you feel like sharing. Until next time, keep those edges keen and your curiosity sharper!

FAQ

Q: How often should I sharpen my kitchen knives?
A: This really depends on how much you use them and what you’re cutting. For true sharpening (removing metal to create a new edge), a home cook might only need to do it a few times a year, or even less if they hone regularly and treat their knives well. Honing, on the other hand, should be done very frequently – ideally before or after each significant use, or at least daily if you’re cooking regularly. Listen to your knife; if it’s struggling to cut cleanly even after honing, it’s probably time for a sharpening.

Q: Can I ruin my knife by sharpening it incorrectly?
A: It’s possible, yes. Consistently using the wrong angle, applying way too much pressure, or being overly aggressive with an electric sharpener can remove too much metal, alter the blade’s profile in an undesirable way, or create a weak or misshapen edge. However, for most minor mistakes, especially when learning with whetstones, the ‘damage’ is often just a less-than-optimal edge that can be corrected with further, more careful sharpening. The key is to start gently, perhaps with a less expensive knife, and focus on consistency. It’s harder to catastrophically ruin a knife than you might think, but it’s good to be cautious.

Q: What’s the best sharpening stone grit for beginners?
A: A great starting point for beginners is a combination whetstone. These typically have two sides with different grits. A common and very useful combination is around 1000 grit on one side and 4000 to 6000 grit on the other. The 1000 grit side is excellent for general sharpening – it’s coarse enough to establish an edge on a reasonably dull knife without being overly aggressive. The 4000-6000 grit side is then used for refining that edge, making it smoother and sharper. This setup covers the basics well without needing a whole collection of stones right away.

Q: Is it better to use a honing steel or a ceramic rod for honing?
A: Both traditional grooved or smooth honing steels and ceramic rods are effective for honing, but they have slightly different characteristics. A steel rod primarily realigns the edge. A ceramic rod is harder than steel and has a very fine abrasive quality, so it not only realigns but can also provide a very slight sharpening or refining effect, especially good for harder knife steels like those found in many Japanese knives. Diamond ‘steels’ are even more abrasive and definitely remove some metal, so they act more like a very fine sharpening tool. For most Western knives, a good quality steel rod is perfectly adequate. If you have very hard steel knives or want a more polished honed edge, a ceramic rod is an excellent choice. It often comes down to personal preference and the types of knives you own.

@article{knife-edge-know-how-sharpening-and-honing-that-works,
    title   = {Knife Edge Know-How: Sharpening and Honing That Works},
    author  = {Chef's icon},
    year    = {2025},
    journal = {Chef's Icon},
    url     = {https://chefsicon.com/proper-knife-sharpening-and-honing-techniques/}
}